I bless the rains down in Africa...

In the early part of the rainy season last month, we had monsoon-like downpours that thundered down for an hour or so and then just as quickly dissipated. After the first month of intense nearly nightly thundershowers, the climate is shifting. Now it’s sometimes gray all day with a light misty drizzle. Last month, you could clearly see a sliver of the Atlantic from my office balcony, but recently, clear days are rare as the rainy season progresses… Despite the lack of view, when it starts to pour, I like to stand out on my little balcony and watch the street scenes. Small children play and splash in puddles. Sometimes they even bathe in the flowing fresh water. Schoolchildren in uniforms take off their shoes and race home, protectively shielding their notebooks. The Nigerian UNMIL soldiers abandon traffic duty and doze under the awning of the Ministry of Defense. Teenagers crowd under shared umbrellas. The market mamas pack up their wares and sit in shop entrances, gossiping with their friends. For a couple of hours, all activity halts and everything is quiet and cool…

Reactions to my response

Someone posted my response on their blog and got the following 2 responses:

1-
Thank you for posting "the other side" of the issue. It was a breath of fresh air. I for one, after many years of living in West Africa, grow weary of being criticized for having a nice meal out, typically by a reporter who is only here for two weeks. I applaud the Sister's of Charity for their vow of poverty--but let's face it, most of us are not quite in their league. For those that leave behind the comforts of home to serve those who need it most -- and on a long term basis--is it really a crime to have some sushi in an air conditioned restaurant every now and then? If it is, then I think I need to go home...

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2-
As a foreigner who has lived, worked in Liberia for several years (from the war days on), I would say that the situation is very complex, although the writer of the original story did bring out some truths. He did NOT use any statistics in his claims, which may have backed some of his opinions or observations, and was biased in some ways. I find that SOME of today's journalists are not responsible in their writing - they fly in for a few days into a country they have never lived in and write something they feel is about a topic only they have opened....if you get what I mean. (even some that are living there write nonsense....)

Salaries for NGO workers vary greatly from very slim (even volunteer) to decent by western standards. The work can also be very gruelling and hours above and beyond what most people would want to work. It is the salaries for UN staff that are huge (beyond even what I expected), but the UN and some NGOs also pay very good salaries to Liberian staff at management levels. Many NGOs are mostly staffed by Liberians and there are local NGOs also only staffed by Liberians. I think he would also have to look into the yearly fees for all foreigners to live and work in Monrovia - which a VISITING journalist would not pay. Although NGO workers do not pay a work permit fee, all other foreigners are suppose to and everyone pays resident permit, if they are following the rules. ( A visa to enter the country is also high compared to other countries and must be paid each time you enter unless you get a re-entry permit which is also paid yearly and was 150 These fees are high, US dollars and yearly. A good question would be to
find out how much the government is receiving from these fees. Also, what of the amazing amount of Chinese citizens working in the country. Since many of them also do labor jobs, are they not taking jobs from Liberians? There was a time when they were selling cool-aid on the street - this is a job for locals only - no? Are they paying those fees also?

I would also look at the exploitation of Liberians by their own Liberians bosses. This is rampant. Some very wealthy Liberians are known for not even paying their workers or owe workers money for years on end. Some of those very people owe me money for work I performed but I have written it off! This topic is so complex and complicated and the NGO worker also brought up points the writer did not point out because today's journalists are not what they use to be. I have read many articles by western journalists about Liberia that are the same...no real substance and full of their own views, as if they are writing for their own blog.
Living in Liberia is not easy at all and I speak as someone who has not lived as a rich expat ever. I did eat at the first sushi bar once as a treat from a friend and I was excited and happy it existed, even if I could not afford to eat there. That hotel too has a long reputation of having the best restaurants in town and I am talking before Taylor, during Taylor, and after Taylor. The family that owns the hotel are very progressive. I think there are so much more important issues to talk about in Liberia and also stories that are not being written to encourage those positive things that are happening in Liberia and are not part of any expat community. Personally, many of my Liberian friends, educated and not, would be so grateful if I could help them get a job working for a foreigner or foreign organization, mainly because the pay is much better and they are paid on time. This is a reality in Liberia.....one of the many realities.
We could also talk of the huge influx of other Africans into Monrovia - they have swelled the city. Some jobs and businesses that were only done by Liberians before the UN came in are now almost exclusively done or owned by other Africans. The borders are very fluid. These are my observations over the years and the observations of the Liberians I work and LIVE with - but I am not writing a journalistic piece for a major paper - if I was......I would try to back up my observations by facts/stats and quotes from different sectors of society of Liberia - not just one or two people. My 2 cents!

Yours truly in the news

My presence in the Liberian media continued throughout the week. My article was published on Tuesday and then several articles about my workshops appeared on Wednesday.

(Please note that the photo in the article was from a speech I gave at Smith 2 years ago and it seems that they flipped it around for layout purposes... The quality of Liberian media... *sigh*)

Then today, I was all over the radio. This morning, I was a guest on a morning radio program called “Coffee Break” to talk about the content and purpose of last week’s workshops as well as share information about YAI’s projects. As part of my project on increasing youth awareness and participation in the TRC process, I was one of the special guests on the UNMIL radio show “Looking at the TRC” this afternoon. My friend and fellow radio guest posted an MP3 of the program here: Here


This weeklong media blitz made me a bit of a local celebrity but I tried not to let it get to my head. Basically it just felt great to reach out to a broader audience and hopefully have a little impact beyond Monrovia.

"In Postwar Liberia, Paradise Amid the Poverty"

My response to Craig Timberg's May 30 Washington Post article:

It is facile to see the slow progress of development in postwar Liberia and point a blaming finger at the Western NGO workers who enjoy a “lavish lifestyle,” but these indictments fail to assess the true impact of the Western presence here in Monrovia and also misrepresent the real lifestyles of Western NGO workers in Monrovia.

Firstly, for the record, most expatriates do not live in the “paradise” described. Amenities that most of your readers take for granted are luxuries here. For examples, many Westerners living in Monrovia do without running water or 24h electricity in our homes. I live in a local-style apartment in downtown Monrovia with six Liberian roommates. We don’t have running water and have only sporadic electricity. In addition, most NGOs do not have huge disposable budgets and shiny new SUVs. The office of Youth Action International (YAI), the NGO where I am currently serving as a consultant, does not have the convenience of private transportation or the luxury of high-speed internet or air-conditioning.

Secondly, the so-called profligate lifestyle of European and American expatriates actually helps stimulate the capital city’s economy. Those sushi bars that are so easily critiqued employ dozens of local Liberians as cooks, waiters, busboys, and bartenders and are supporting the livelihood of fishermen who otherwise would not have a market for their fish. Expatriate dollars are trickling down into the impoverished local economy and are providing jobs and stimulating business growth.
In addition to the jobs in the burgeoning hospitality industry, NGO community employs hundreds of Liberians as drivers, secretaries, domestic helpers, and security guards, at wages that are very generous by Liberian standards. These otherwise unemployed Liberians can now afford to pay their children’s school fees and can contribute to their households’ rising food expenses.
While most of the jobs offered are low-ranking as the author accurately mentions, few Liberians have the experience or education necessary to fill high-ranking posts. The 13-year civil war all but eradicated the educational system and most of what has been rebuilt so far is laughable in quality. Those Liberians who are educated often choose to go into sectors that are more personally profitable such as business or government rather than non-profit work. However, many NGOs try to fill mid-ranking positions with Liberians so they can gain the experience and knowledge to eventually take over for themselves—and some have already succeeded. For instance, all the YAI – Liberia staff are Liberian.

Finally, the Western expatriates who come to work here are motivated, bright, hard-working individuals. We are taking risks to our personal health and safety to live and work here, far from our families and friends. We are distant from the comfort and familiarity of home in a postwar nation with a security situation still so precarious it demands the 2nd largest peacekeeping force in the world. Why should we be made to feel guilty for patronizing innovative local businesses that cater to our palates and provide employment opportunities for Liberians? And for all our hard work and all the challenges we encounter working to improve a postwar impoverished country that is not our own, are we not entitled to a little escapism?
We truly care about Liberia and Liberians and the fact that we want to sit back and enjoy some California rolls on a Friday night does not negate that.

YAI Workshop

Exhausted doesn’t begin to describe how tired I am right now. My entire body is heavy and the fatigue sits deep in my bones. Breathing feels laborious and I have lost my voice. But even though my body is depleted, my mind is invigorated. For the past 2 days, I’ve been facilitating a workshop for Liberian youths. There were 25 participants from roughly 12 different youth groups. The theme yesterday was transitional justice, which was essentially the same workshop I developed for one of the groups in Thailand, with more emphasis on truth commissions and specifically the Liberian Truth and Reconciliation Commission (TRC). Today, conflict management was the focus. Again, I used the same workshop template that I developed for my Burmese students in Thailand. We practiced some effective communication skills and then I taught them some problem-solving techniques, including the Circle Chart (also known as the 4 Quadrant Tool).

However, the similarity with my work with the Burmese groups in Thailand ends there. The Liberian group was the antithesis of the quiet, punctual, and focused Burmese students. However, I was expecting it. Firstly, I am familiar with “Africa time,” which means that everything starts at least an hour behind schedule. (I once went to a meeting in Kenya that started nearly 4 hours after the supposed start time. Seriously.) In addition, the setup was not ideal for teaching: we were in a bit of a cramped space with limited ventilation. In order to have at least a little air circulating so we didn’t pass out in the 90 degree heat, we had to open the windows, which allowed the cacophony from below to stream in from one of the busiest streets in downtown Monrovia. So I spent most of the day sweating and nearly shouting to compete with the dissonant mix of American rap, gospel music, and car horns.


Despite these annoyances, the workshop was a real success. Not only did the participants have fun, but they really engaged in the material. In fact, I was pleasantly surprised at just how engaged some individuals were. Despite all the challenges they’ve faced, most were incredibly well-informed, articulate, and passionate. At times, it was tempting for me to just sit back and let them have a group discussion. In fact, yesterday, while I didn’t retire from my role as a facilitator entirely, I changed tactics in the afternoon and facilitated with a very light touch, just subtly guiding the conversation and making sure that people took turns speaking. What made these discussions particularly fascinating for me is the fact that the theoretical material I was teaching was really coming to life. Rather than talking about truth commissions in general terms, we talked about the current Liberian TRC and the issues surrounding it such as legitimacy, participation, corruption, results, misconceptions etc. Today, when discussing various conflict management skills, the group brought up challenging questions and poignant personal examples. Nearly everything we discussed was relevant to everyday life in postwar Liberia, which made for a vibrant and thought-provoking couple of days

Photo journal

This weekend I decided to take a day to walk around town and take some snapshots. My mildly overprotective roommate and colleague Isaac insisted that it was not safe for me to walk around by myself, especially with a camera. While I do walk around every day with my laptop and camera in my bag, I rarely go beyond the 4-block radius of my office and apartment by myself—and certainly never ever at night. Criminality is extremely high in Liberia, as in every postwar country where so many are desperately poor and with no prospects. So when Isaac offered to accompany me for the afternoon, I accepted, and we spent a couple of hours walking and driving around in share taxis all around Monrovia.

Common downtown street scene: women in colorful fabrics, little children running every which way, little shops selling miscellany, a cracked sidewalk…

Young boy selling cold bags of water and bottles of soda.


To dissuade people from urinating on the wall


The little kids from my street who chase after me and call me “Aunty”


A billboard near the Executive Mansion


A share taxi in the Red Light Market

In-House Training

Using the example of last week’s miscommunication and several other incidents in the office, I held an in-office training today on effective communication skills. Using some of the same exercises I used in Thailand, we worked on active listening skills. Then I introduced the Two-Column tool and we worked on bridging the gap between the two columns, i.e. “what we think and feel” vs. “what we say.” The YAI staff is small, only 5 people, and the intimate setting and trust between the participants made the training really dynamic, fun, and interesting.

I had been planning on holding weekly trainings for the YAI staff for some time now, but several factors intervened to delay the first training to today. Between my hectic meeting schedule and the holiday in the middle of last week, I never had a sufficient chunk of time to run a real training session. In addition, all of the YAI staff are also full-time university students—despite being in their late twenties. This is due to the suspension of education during the civil war, which causes the majority of Liberians to be far behind in their studies. Juggling a full course load plus their work responsibilities means that the YAI staff members also have limited time to allocate to trainings. However, I think the success of today’s training has made us all more devoted to really making time for these sessions every week.

The 3-hour training this afternoon was also a good warm up for me since next week YAI is sponsoring a 2-day workshop that I am facilitating for representatives from several youth groups in Monrovia.

Meeting the 2nd Lady of Liberia

I woke up today feeling refreshed after my unexpected day off and trip to the beach. After a busy morning in the office, I walked across town to the headquarters of the Group of 77, a government-sponsored program for handicapped Liberians. The head of the Group of 77 with whom I met is actually the Second Lady of Liberia, i.e. the Vice President’s wife, i.e. the Lynne Cheney of Liberia. While it was an honor to meet her, I realized about 20 minutes into the meeting that there was no possibility for developing a partnership between our organizations for a very simple reason: the “Enabled” program that YAI is developing specifically targets people who were handicapped because of the war, while the Group of 77 only works with people who are handicapped due to disease (polio etc) or accident. Thankfully, the Second Lady completely understood that we were restricted by the project proposal and the desire of our funders, and graciously passed on the information about other government-sponsored programs for people handicapped because of the conflict. I was a little embarrassed by this obvious miscommunication, but comforted to know that there were people out there who actually wanted to help Liberians in need, even if it wouldn’t benefit them or their organization.

YAI's projects

Today was reserved for visits to YAI’s main project sites. The first project was a community empowerment project done in partnership with the US Agency for International Development (USAID). The project was simple and consisted of two parts. The first was field research on the main social issues in some of the most conflict affected and at-risk urban communities. The second part was the development of special slogans targeting those issues that were then introduced to the people through community meetings and further disseminated on billboards, bumper stickers, radio programs, and tee-shirts.



After driving all around Greater Monrovia looking at the various billboards, we made our way to the J.C.N. Howard Memorial Playground. This playground, as with all others in Liberia, was severely dilapidated and so badly damaged during the civil war that it was nearly dangerous for children to play there. YAI’s founder and my friend, Kimmie Weeks, had particular attachment to this playground because it is where he played as a child growing up in Monrovia. As one of the organization’s first projects in Liberia, YAI renovated the playground and continues to maintain it. Now, hundreds of neighborhood children have a place to play and just be kids. It was so refreshing to see all of these children playing with real toys and on proper equipment as opposed to literally amusing themselves on the street or in ramshackle alleyways. While many could criticize this type of project, Liberia was so destroyed by the civil war that these basic projects are truly needed.


The last project I visited today was the Elwood Orphanage. Before YAI began supporting the orphanage, a courageous woman was simply taking children orphaned by the conflict into her home. As the numbers of children increased, she eventually had to move to a neighboring building, but it had no roof and no real facilities for the children. Now YAI supports Elwood and the building not only has a roof, but also windows, doors, a real classroom, and dorms for the boys and girls. There are nearly a hundred children living at the orphanage. They also have their own vegetable garden and little pig and chicken farm, with the goal of eventually becoming self-sustainable in terms of food.

Tacos 'n' Trivia

The past week has been a flurry of activity at work. I’m shaking things up a bit in the office with good results and getting leads on possible NGO partnerships. Yesterday I had a very interesting and productive meeting with the Country Representative of UNICEF. UNICEF sees YAI as a potential partner to help support the development of youth groups, which is exciting for YAI because that is not only the kind of program we’d really like to develop but also because it gives us an established and well-funded partner. In addition, the Country Representative introduced me to several other relevant people around the UNICEF offices and she promised to include YAI in any future NGO consultations and meetings. Unfortunately, I came down from my “productive morning” high when someone informed me that UNICEF has the unfortunate reputation in Liberia of being very slow and unreliable. Hopefully I’ll be able to instill in the YAI staff the need for regular follow-up so we can develop this relationship into a true partnership.

My energy and progress at work has come at a bit of a cost though: I really don’t have any friends besides my colleagues and roommates. This week though, I met someone through work who invited me to a “Tacos and Trivia evening. While usually exhausted from my 10-12 hour workdays in my non-air-conditioned office, I made the effort to go out tonight and mingle a bit with some fellow expatriates. Also, I really can’t resist the combination of two of my favorite things in the whole world: Mexican food and Trivial Pursuit.